Yamashina’s Bishamon-do

​What do you want to do when you retire? Maybe you’re already there and living life the way you want. Maybe you’re in university and can’t even imagine what being retired looks like. Or maybe you’re someone who feels they’ll never stop working, no matter what.

The other day I talked with an older Japanese gentleman who was excited to be leaving the workforce. When I asked him what his plans were post-retirement, he beamed and produced a booklet that I recognized as one that’s often sold at temples. “I am going to visit every temple and shrine in Kyoto. After that, maybe I’ll branch out to the Kansai region, but this book only covers the “Kyoto pilgrimage”. He eyed it fondly for a moment before returning it to his bag. “I’ll start the first weekend after my retirement party.” 

This sort of plan is not uncommon in Japan; should you find yourself at a train station early on a weekend morning don’t be too surprised to find a whole bunch of older folks with hiking paybacks, walking sticks, and pamphlets for the latest popular hiking location in their hands. It’s something I greatly admire about folks in Japan; this motivation to get out and see things like they’ve probably dreamed of for decades, but only now have the chance to do.

Another reason I think it’s so cool is that there are so. Many. Temples. Especially in Kyoto. Stay here a week and try visiting nothing but temples and shrines and I guarantee you’ll burn yourself out. You think you’re done after Kiyomizu, Kinkakuji and Sanjuusangendo? What about Nishi and Higashi Hongwanji temples? Shimogamo Shrine? Eikan-do? That tiny neighborhood temple you’ve walked by ten times already whose name you can’t find or read? 

I’m not nearly as gung-ho about hitting up every single temple like that gentleman, but I do like having new things to do. And places to visit. And despite living in Kyoto city, do you know where I almost never venture unless it’s for work?

Yamashina ward, Kyoto City. 

I emphasize that it’s part of the city because for the longest time I didn’t realize it was. You go through a mountain to reach it from Kyoto Station, after all! But Yamashina is a quieter, suburban area compared to downtown Kyoto and as such tends to get overlooked by tourists unless you have friends In The Know.

There is a lot to do in Yamashina; remember when I was taken to meet an Urushi-san? That was only a few minutes away from JR Yamashina station by taxi. There’s the canal that leads all the way into Lake Biwa. And tucked away, only a fifteen minute walk behind Yamashina station, is one of many gorgeous places to take in the autumn leaves (and some Japanese history)– Bishamon-do temple. 

Bishamon-do is said to enshrine one of Japan’s Seven Lucky God’s of Fortune, Bishamonten. Given I had no idea, I was confused at first when I arrived and saw all these signs saying the latter name and assumed it was another name for the temple. (I admittedly dropped the ball on researching the before going, as my main goal was to see pretty leaves.) Bishamonten, by the way, is the Lord of Treasure and Wealth. The more you know, right? 

Anyway, the place was established in 703 and wasn’t always in Yamashina- it was originally up around the Kyoto Imperial Palace until a few hundred years ago. It is well-known for not only autumn leaves but also for it’s cherry blossoms in spring.

When you reach Yamashina station on basically any train line, exit the gates and look for the Starbucks. There’s a pedestrian tunnel next, to it you can take to get behind the JR station. After that it’s a simple matter of following the signs and going uphill till you reach it. If you cross over the canal, you’re going the right way!

Admission to the temple grounds is free but if you want to enter the main hall, it’ll run you 500 yen (and require you to take off your shoes). We opted to forego entering the hall but still spent a good two hours admiring everything the grounds had to offer.

There are a number of smaller temples nearby, as well as a cemetery. You can enter the cemetery but please don’t take pictures! Admire it and move on– there is no shortage of other cool things to snap photos of. 

There were not many foreign tourists there but I did see some signs in English, including on the signs that point you to the temple in the first place! If you’re in town and want to check out some nature or some history away from the throngs of people at bigger-name places, go check this place out. Especially on a weekday, you’ll get a breath of fresh air, and maybe make a friend or two in the shape of some locals.

Did  you go anywhere to see autumn leaves this year?

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